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Reviews - 2006 - Heason Events

Reviews - 2006

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16th Nov 2006 Jacket: Berghaus Blast Jacket

The Berghaus Blast Jacket is a no frills basic down jacket at a basic price. It comes in the standard black or blue colours. It is zipped which means you have two hand warming pockets rather than...

17th Oct 2006 Guidebook: Kalumnos Rock Climbing

I first went to Kalymnos about 6 years ago. Back then there was a fairly basic set of topos you could download from the Internet thanks to an enterprising local called Aris. Aris has pretty much...

13th Oct 2006 Cams: Metolius TCU

The Ultralight TCUs from Metolius are a recent addition to their protection range. What first strikes you about them is their exceptionally light weight. The two sizes reviewed were 2 and 3,...

10th Oct 2006 Headtorch: Petzl E+ Lite

The Wow Factor The new e+LITE from Petzl is this year's must-have bit of kit and is likely to fill so many stockings this Christmas that Santa won't know what's hit him! What is it? It's a tiny...

9th Oct 2006 Softshell: The North Face Apex Valkyrie

I've said it before - I like softshells. Previous models that I have worn have all been fairly light weight, the sort of clothing that I would always stuff into a rucsack without even thinking...

8th Oct 2006 Guidebook: Lancashire Rock

The previous Lancashire Rock guide made a bit of a stir when it was first published. Unfortunately because it was one of the biggest, fattest guidebooks ever produced and nobody could be bothered...

29th Sep 2006 Rucksack: Berghaus Freeflow Light

I’ve often been less than impressed with Berghaus sacks in the past. This little beauty has turned a few old ideas on their heads. I have to start the review with a commendation on how light it...

26th Sep 2006 Rucksack: Macpac Torlesse 60

Designed as a multi use pack the Macpac Torlesse is a well made piece of kit that I expect will still be going strong in 10 years time (my 15 year old VauDe is still with me, but alas is as...

26th Sep 2006 DVD: Hotaches E11

Upon finishing watching this film yesterday my wife declared it ‘the best climbing film she has seen to date’. And I’ve ‘made’ her watch quite a few climbing films! E11 is a 41 minute...

Macpac Vamoose 16th Sep 2006 Carrier: Macpac Vamoose

We decided on a Vamoose after an unhealthy dose of research over a number of late nights. Don't bother with a bulky pram or all terrain push chair, get a decent child carrier and a lightweight...

10th Sep 2006 Guidebook: Rockfax Eastern Grit

Back in December 2001 I reviewed the predecessor to this book: Peak Gritstone East. It was, at the time, the first all colour topo guide book I’d seen. I just went back to read my review to see...

20th Aug 2006 BBQ: Grilliput

Grilliput Every now and again something new comes along that stands out from the crowd of products doomed to a short life in the Innovations catalogue. The Grilliput is a very neat, very well...

14th Aug 2006 Self Heatng Meals: Cross & Blackwell Self Heater

Hunger Breaks Self Heating Meals I tried and tested two varieties of these gadget meals, a boil in the bag style Steak and Vegetables, and a plastic tub style Chicken Curry. Both meals weighed...

27th Jul 2006 Insect Repellent: PreVent

Living in the UK insect repellent is an essential addition to any cragging rucksack. From Tremadog to Stanage to Glen Etive the midges (and more recently mosquitoes) can quite literally ruin your...

20th Jul 2006 Book: Klem Loskot Emotional Landscapes

Emotional Landscapes http://www.klemloskot.com/buche.html Klem Loskot is perhaps best known for his bouldering and deep water soloing antics, in particular the double dyno way, way above the...

19th Jul 2006 Cams: Wild Country Zeros

Let's start with a quote from Kevin Thaw: “New products appear from time to time that make routes easier and sometimes people claim these advances warrant grade revisions. I know these claims...

17th Jul 2006 Nuts: Metolius Astro Wires

Strange name, but great bit of kit. I would usually associate 'Astro' with something large, not something as tiny and well formed as these nuts are. I'm not going to tell porkies. I have not...

14th Jul 2006 Cam Rewiring: Wild Country

Ever wonder what to do with your old Friends with worn clings and broken wires? Send them back to Wild Country and pay to have the old bits replaced. Basically the cams and stem should last many,...

10th Jun 2006 DVD: Sender Films Return2Sender

A Peter Mortimer Film Watching Return2Sender is a bit like reading a book by an author new to you can sometime be. The style can be so irritating and such hard work that you are prone to giving up...

9th Jun 2006 Nuts: DMM Walnuts Set

DMM Wallnuts There's not a whole lot to say about nuts. At the end of the day the principle is pretty basic: a tapered chock on the end of a piece of flexible wire. Said chock is wedged into a...

8th Jun 2006 DMM: Delivernance Rope Bag

I was a little dubious about this bag when I first used it. That was because I threw away the instructions and didn't grasp the concept immediately. Basically it is a two part bag: a waterproof...

7th Jun 2006 Guidebook: Fontainebleau Off Piste

Every now and again I get a little more excited than normal about a review. Why? Because the product in question is a new Fontainebleau guide! Fontainebleau, home to some tens of thousands of...

6th Jun 2006 Guidebook: Versante Sud Arco Rock

Arco Rock Featuring Sarca Valley, Trento, Roverto, Giudicarie Valleys & Brenta Dolomites. Written by Matio Manica, Antonella Cicogna & Davide Negretti Reading the blurb inside the back cover you...

1st Jun 2006 Rope: Mammut Serenity 8.9mm

Mammut Serenity 8.9mm 60m Ropes are one of those bits of kit that we kid ourselves about. We buy a new one and read all the blurb that comes with them scaring ourselves with the talk of 'stretch...

1st Jun 2006 DVD: Tjugo Pa Kjuge

I have mixed feelings about this DVD. On the one hand it showcases a fantastic looking bouldering venue somewhere in Sweden. On the other hand it follows the same fairly tired old format of funky...

1st Jun 2006 Bananaguard

It'd be a hard job to top some of the other reviews for the Bananaguard on the site. I will add that it does its job very effectively. My two gripes are as follows: 1. It is a little hard to open....

31st May 2006 Softshell: The North Face Zeitgeist

  Softshells: some people hate 'em, some love 'em. I recently had a fairly heated discussion with a friend who maintained that they are a pointless garment and a superb marketing con. I on the...

25th May 2006 Book: Karl Bushby Giant Steps

Giant Steps by Karl Bushby My prediction, after reading this book, is that by the time he arrives home in Hull some time in 2011 Karl Bushby will be one of the most famous explorers / adventurers...

22nd May 2006 Intect Repellent: Zaptag

Zaptag In a nutshell the Zaptag is a waterproof 256Mb USB flash drive with a piece of custom written software on it for storing medical records whilst travelling. I was impressed by the idea, but...

21st May 2006 Shorts: Prana Mojo

Fact: Prana make nice looking clothes. Question: Do Prana make nice looking clothes that perform well? Answer: If these Mojo shorts are representative of the performance / technical range - yes...

17th May 2006 Approach Shoes: The North Face Hedgehogs

I'm fairly picky about names. I quite like kit that has a good name, and the Hedgehogs certainly don't disappoint on that front. Not quite sure why Hedgehog - they're not spiky and they don't roll...

17th May 2006 Belay Device: Faders SUM

WARNING: SEE THIS ARTICLE ON THE DANGERS OF USING A FADERS SUM FOR SELF-BELAYING   I've been an avid Gri Gri user for many years so I was quite open to the idea of testing a new auto-locking...

12th May 2006 Nuts: Metolius Anodised Curved Nuts

Metolius Anodised Curved Nuts I recently read a few articles in Andy Kirkpatrick’s Climb Magazine supplement, Cockaholic. I was surprised to read of people writing so vehemently about their most...

7th Apr 2006 Digital Printing: Posing Productions

Travel back in time just a couple of years and ask any self respecting photographer what they thought of the cometh of the digital revolution. You’d usually hear a resounding denial that it...

3rd Apr 2006 DVD: Stone Monkey

A year after I first started climbing somebody produced a copy of Stone Monkey on video. I was gob-smacked. For those who’ve never heard of this legendary title it begins with a dream sequence...

3rd Apr 2006 Guidebook: Vertebrate Graphics White Peak Mountain Biking

In 2004 Vertebrate Graphics produced White Peak Mountain Biking. Then came South West Mountain Biking in 2005. 2006 sees the third title in the series, partner to the first, White Peak Mountain...

15th Mar 2006 Laptop Bag: Exped Crush

Every now and again something comes along that’s innovative, practical and most importantly, affordable. This is one of those items. Basically if you have a laptop you are probably pretty...

7th Mar 2006 Belay Device: Wild Country VC Pro

Wild Country VC Pro I have a fair amount of climbing kit, much of it very nice, lightweight and easy to use. I am the first to admit then, that the fact that I still use a beaten-up old Stitcht...

7th Mar 2006 Karabiner: Wild Country Xenon

  The Xenon is basically a full sized karabiner that has been trimmed down to make it pretty light weight. At 36g this is indeed lighter than average. It fits snugly in the hand, has a slim-line...

7th Mar 2006 Guidebook: Rockfax Heavy Water - Ice Climbing In Rjukan Norway

Heavy Water - Ice Climbing in Rjukan Norway Jon Haukassveen & Tom Atle Bordevik It’s all the rage this winter, ice climbing in Norway. Sure Brits have been hopping across the North Sea every...

7th Mar 2006 Bouldering Mar: Red Chili Splashdown

My first bouldering mat was made by my mum. It had a waterproof cover, a single piece of medium density foam inside, and a couple of elasticated carry handles. It was great at the time, but I now...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Montrail Magnet

£70.00 | Lace Up | size reviewed 10 (foot size 10) | weight 475g | medium asymmetry Montrail are relatively new to the rock UK shoe market. They are certainly making a big impression by...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Red Chili X Cubes

£65.00 | Velcro | size reviewed 9.5 (foot size 10) | weight 549g | high asymmetry The X-Cube is a distinctive looking shoe with bright orange and yellow colouring. This boot uses an open two part...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Madrock Shogun

£69.00 | Lace Up | size reviewed 10 (foot size 10) | weight 498g | high asymmetry  An interesting feature of these shoes from Mammut is the collection of ridges under the mid-sole and heel....

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Quechua Ballerine

£34.95 | Slipper | size reviewed 9.5 (foot size 10) | weight 553g | high asymmetry The Ballerine is a fairly standard looking slipper design with a large piece of elastic at the front and a...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Madrock Hooker EZ

  £70.00 | Velcro | size reviewed 10 (foot size 10) | weight 572g | low asymmetry, but very aggressive Mad Rock have a relatively short, but colourful history of manufacturing rock shoes that...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Mammut Karma

£59.00 | Slipper | size reviewed 10 (foot size 10) | weight 480g | low asymmetry Probably the most striking and stylish of the shoes on test, the Mammut slipper has a white synthetic suede...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: La Sportiva Venom

£70.00 | Slipper | size reviewed 8.5 (foot size 10) | weight 525g | high asymmetry Slippers generally have to be so tight in order to stop them slipping, that they are uncomfortable. This is...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: 5.10 Anasazi Velcros

£70.00 | Velcro | size reviewed 10 (foot size 10) | weight 532g | medium asymmetry One of the classics. These boots have a conventional double Velcro closure, synthetic low stretch upper, a split...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: La Sportiva Katana

£80.00 | Velcro | size reviewed 9 (foot size 10) | weight 553g | medium asymmetry An old classic nowadays, the Katana still has many features that make them stand out. Firstly we love the...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: 5.10 Anasazi Lace Up

£70.00 | Velcro | size reviewed 9.5 (foot size 10) | weight 497g | medium asymmetry The old classic, these really were ahead of their time. Having been around a while now other makes have caught...

1st Mar 2006 Fingerboard: Metolius Wood Grips

Woodgrips Finger Board It’s been a while since I used a finger board and I am a fir bit stronger now than then. Hopefully this will mean that I can remain injury free, unlike last time… The...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: 5.10 T Rock

£70.00 | Lace Up | size reviewed 10.5 (foot size 10) | weight 546g | high asymmetry A large fit which results in some light pressure points high around the ankle, and a typically baggy Five Ten...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Evolv Predator

£70.00 | Velcro | size reviewed 10.5 (foot size 10) | weight 513g | medium asymmetry Evolv are a fairly new make to the UK. The two pairs tested here were very distinctive in looks so should...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Twins Skin Stone

£48.99 | Slipper | size reviewed 10 (foot size 10) | weight 541g | high asymmetry Currently distributed only out of the Leeds climbing wall, and originating from Italy Twins are set to make a...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: 5.10 Galileo

£70.00 | Velcro | size reviewed 10 (foot size 10) | weight 545g | medium asymmetry Some of the tightest shoes on trial - make sure you don’t buy too small. The tight fit makes them feel stiffer...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Evolv Kaos

£68.00 | Velcro | size reviewed 9.5 (foot size 10) | weight 502g | low asymmetry Very yellow! These shoes like their cousin stand out. Billed as excelling at edging, they are straight lasted and...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Scarpa Tifosi

£80.00 | Lace Up | size reviewed 9.5 (foot size 10) | weight 551g | high asymmetry Certainly one of the most aggressive shoes on review. Virtually useless for smearing as the toes is so downward...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Boreal Crux

£72.95 | Velcro | size reviewed 10 (foot size 10) | weight 588g | medium asymmetry Boreal claim that their new rubber is so sticky that the boots have to be shipped in separate plastic bags to...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Boreal Piranha

£74.95 | Lace Up | size reviewed 10 (foot size 10) | weight 637g | low asymmetry The Piranha is a nice simple looking shoe. Built on a fairly straight narrow last with the latest Boreal rubber...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Red Chili Spirit Velcro Impact Zone

£65.00 | Velcro | size reviewed 9.5 (foot size 10) | weight 593g | medium asymmetry Let’s begin by getting something out of the way. What a daft name. The Boreal Ace or Five Ten Anasazi –...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Acopa Chameleon

  £71.99 | Velcro | size reviewed 9.5 (foot size 10) | weight 556g | medium asymmetry Acopa are an American brand designed by legend John Bachar. Initial impressions were important as we had no...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Acopa B3

  £75.99 | Velcro | size reviewed 9.5 (foot size 10) | weight 569g | medium asymmetry The B3 is a beefy, solid shoe that looks like it is going to last. They are fairly old fashioned in general...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Quechua Vuarde Tech

£49.95 | Velcro | size reviewed 10 (foot size 10) | weight 562g | low asymmetry If the blurb is to be believed Quechua are soon to become the largest manufacturer of outdoor gear in the world....

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Twins Bomba

£58.99 | Velcro | size reviewed 10 (foot size 10) | weight 504g | medium asymmetry Twins are a new company to the British market and look to have some interesting options. The Bomba’s are a...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Montrail Wasabi

£70.00 | Velcro | size reviewed 10 (foot size 10) | weight 473g | medium asymmetry The lightest shoes in the review, if you are working on a project where every gram helps then the Wasabi’s are...

1st Mar 2006 Rock Shoes: Scarpa Vision Velcro

£69.99 | Velcro | size reviewed 9.5 (foot size 10) | weight 503g | low asymmetry The Vision Velcro’s are one of the comfiest high performance shoes we have ever used. Actually they are probably...

24th Feb 2006 Guidebook: Skye Ice Climbs

  Skye Rock & Ice Climbs John Mackenzie & Noel Williams Scottish Mountaineering Club Climbers’ Guide A re-print of the 1996 guide this is the definitive guide to rock and ice climbs on Skye....

6th Feb 2006 Walking Boots: Berghaus Kibo GTX

Berghaus Kibo GTX Lightweight Mountaineering Boot The very first thing everybody says when I hand them this pair of boots is ‘blimey these are light’ or something along those lines. Weighing...

2nd Feb 2006 Fleece: TNF Windwall Men's

The jacket was quite light for a windstopper, and the material had a slight ‘rigidity’ to its structure. The jacket felt slightly restrictive for the first few minutes (around the house) and...

30th Jan 2006 Guidebook: BMC Burbage, Millstone & Beyond

Burbage, Millstone & Beyond Eastern Edges: North Just finished browsing through my copy of the new BMC guide. I have to say that once again I am impressed. That’s not to say that I didn’t have...

12th Jan 2006 Chalk Bucket: Metolius Bouldering Bucket with M16 Brush & Super Chalk

  Years ago I'd go down to the climbing wall and tut under my breath at guys climbing with their tops off! I'm now normally one of the first to remove my shirt whilst bouldering now. I also used...

11th Jan 2006 Resole: Feet First

Feet First Resole Rock boots / shoes are hardly cheap. You can reasonably expect to pay upwards of £65 for a performance pair. Let’s say that you have worn a pair for 6 months, they have been...

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