Reviews - Approach Shoes: The North Face Hedgehogs

 

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Wed 17th May 06 Belay Device: Faders SUM

WARNING: SEE THIS ARTICLE ON THE DANGERS OF USING A FADERS SUM FOR SELF-BELAYING

 

I've been an avid Gri Gri user for many years so I was quite open to the idea of testing a new auto-locking single rope belay device. I'm aware that many climbers loathe such abominations as the Gri Gri for various reasons.

For those who haven't used a Gri Gri style auto-locking belay device the principle is pretty simple. They work with single ropes only - by this I mean that you can only use one rope - the rope diameter permissible varies from device to device. The device opens up, the rope is passed through a channel within the device, it is closed, and clipped to your harness much like any other belay device. The trickery lies in a movable cam within the device which, when the rope is pulled through quickly in the direction of the climber the cam is moved and locks the rope tight. It is very similar to a car seat-belt mechanism. It is imperative to thread the rope through the device in the correct direction - devices usually come with an etched in diagram to make sure you get it right.

So how is the SUM different from other devices? Its main claim to fame is that it accepts a wider range of rope diameters - from 9.1mm to 10.5mm. With modern sport climbing ropes now dropping below 9mm in diameter this is a welcome device where previously using a Gri Gri with a sub 9.5mm rope was akin to holding a fall with a pair of greased Marigolds! In operation it is much the same as its big brother from Petzl, however there is one major drawback. Where the Gri Gri has a retractable plastic arm to help release the cam when lowering the climber down, the equivalent handle on the SUM is, in my opinion, less effective. This means that lowering can be pretty slow and difficult if the weight of the climber is much greater than the belayer, as the locked cam becomes very difficult to release.

The other major breakthrough, according to the Spanish manufacturer Faders, is that it allows dynamic braking, reducing the shock load by up to 75% (compared to 'alternatives'). It's obviously nigh on impossible to test such statistics at the wall or crag so we have to trust in the blurb - a fully illustrated printed document is available from the Faders website. However I can say that having used it fairly extensively over a couple of months all leader falls were comfortably held and the device and rope show no signs of wear and tear.

Lastly the SUM can be used quite comfortably for abseiling.

The SUM weighs 260g (Gri Gri is 225g) and costs retails at £49.99, the same as the Gri Gri.

Wed 17th May 06 Approach Shoes: The North Face Hedgehogs

I'm fairly picky about names. I quite like kit that has a good name, and the Hedgehogs certainly don't disappoint on that front. Not quite sure why Hedgehog - they're not spiky and they don't roll up into a ball, but it's definitely memorable.

The North Face Flight Series is basically a range of technical clothing, footwear and equipment that is designed to be lightweight, yet practical. planetFear have tested a whole range of Flight Series kit and are generally very impressed. A friend recently completed the Coast To Coast walk, arriving home to complain of the heavy pack he wore along the way. Upon further questioning it turned out that he was carrying some pretty heavy kit. We ran a wee experiment, weighing his bag, and then calculating the equivalent value for a bag full of similar Flight Series kit. He looked rather frustrated - the difference was impressive.

On with the review. The key words in the manufacturer's blurb are ultralightweight (is that a word?), waterproof and breathable. I've tested them running, walking, cycling and climbing. They are certainly pretty waterproof, but don't expect the sort of protection you'd get from a pair of wellies! Deliberately running through puddles I kept my feet dry as long as I didn’t let the water in over the top of the shoes. On the other hand the downside to wearing wellies, or any other non breathable waterproof shoe, is sweating. The Gore-Tex lining kept my feet pretty dry and sweet smelling (which is saying something!). I suspect this has something to do with the anti-microbial footbed. They are lightweight (834g for the pair) to the extent that I have never noticed their weight whilst wearing them. The Vibram sole has a very pronounced bevelled edge to it which is great for running as it gives a very good degree of stability, but rubbish for scrambling or climbing, and also pretty scary to drive in - the edge of the shoe keeps catching the neighbouring pedals as well as the intended one! My one other complaint relates to the tongue. It is a generous gusseted affair, which on first acquaintance feels great. Whenever I run for more than a mile or so I begin to notice a slight rubbing on the outside of each foot as the outermost edge of the tongue bunches to form a mild pressure point. It is easily rectified by manually spreading the tongue, but this generally necessitates a stop which can be frustrating, or very welcome depending on the run. I suspect those with very narrow feet may suffer from this design flaw more noticeably so it is definitely worth testing them as thoroughly as possible.

Overall a nice looking, generally comfortable technical shoe.

Technical Spec:
Streamlined, ultralightweight, waterproof, breathable, Gore -Tex® XCR® low-cut with exclusive Vibram® outsole, designed for fast-paced outdoor activities.

Gore -Tex® XCR® waterproof, breathable membrane

Abrasion-resistant, bomber synthetic nubuck and waterproof, breathable sandwich mesh upper

Gusseted tongue

AgION™ anti-microbial X-2™ footbed Compression-moulded, lightweight EVA midsole Heel

X-2™ O2 air pod Injection-molded TPU shank plate

Exclusive, lightweight Vibram® rubber outsole

 

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