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John Dunne

John Dunne CV

Name: John David Dunne
Born: Bradford 5th September 1968.
Age: 36.
Job: Professional Climber

Starting climbing at Age 11

Age 14 : Edge Lane E5 5c on sight solo Millstone Edge

Age 16 : Indecent Exposure E6 6b 6a Ravens Tor, Lord of the Flies E6 6a Cromlech

Age 17 : John starts to establish an impressive list of new unclimbed lines:

The Maximum E6 6c Malham
Snap Decision E7 6b Ilkley
Countdown to Disaster E8 6b Ilkley

Age 18 : Magnetic Fields FA 8b Britain's first 8b climb Cave Route left 7c+ Hardest British onsight climbed

Age 19 : A series of World Class traditional and Sport Climbs:

New Statesman FA E8, 7a Ilkley
Predator FA 8b Malham
Cry Freedom second accent 8b+ Malham

Age 21 : Established Britain's first E10, Partheon Shot E10 7a Burbage.

Age 22 : 1990 John stopped climbing and underwent a series of complicated shoulder operations due to over training and tendon damage.

Age 25 : 1993 Climbed extensively in the Alps both Summer and Winter.

Age 26 : 1994 Returned to climbing with a five month road trip around Europe taking in some of the most famous areas Chamonix, Dolomites, Verdon, Digital Crack, 8a+, Midi Frankenjura, Switzerland and Spain, M Blanc. Established Spain's hardest sport climb Hari Kiri 8C+ El Chorro.

Age 27 : 1995 Returned to World Class form:

Established Britain's first 9a. Total Eclipse 9a Malham
American Direct Dru French Alps
Divided Years E10,7a Mourne Mountains

Age 28 : 1996 Controversially removed bolts from Bosherston Head and climbed the line without them - The Big Issue E9 6c Pembroke. An ethical standpoint and important event in climbing history.

Age 29 : 1997 Made significant advances on gritstone. Savage Earth E9 7a Widdop. Loaded, E8 7a, unrepeated.

Age 30 : 1998 Widdop Wall E9 7a Widdop Carmen Piccaso E9 6c Gorple Fast Forward E7 6c Ilkley (hailed a modern classic).

Age 31 : 1999 : In April visited California and Nevada climbing at Joshua Tree, Yosemite, Bishop Red Rocks and Zion. Made the 2nd ascent of Impact Day, E8 6c on Pavey Ark, Langdale.Spent August and September attempting new line on Great Gable.

Age 32 : 2000 Spent most of Winter and Spring injured. Made 1st ascent of Breathless E10 7a on Great Gables Tophet Wall in the Lake District. This is probably the hardest traditional route in the world (see gallery). On his second trip to the states he climbed at the Needles and Tuolumne Meadows were he climbed many classic lines. At Tuolumne he made an early British ascent of the serious Bachar/Yerian route on the Medliocott Dome. In Yosemite he made an impressive one day ascent of the Regular Route on Half Dome. A visit to Spain in November resulted in the onsighting of several 8as on Desplomlandia near El Chorro. Spent Christmas in the Costa Brava onsighting a multi pitch E6 on the Penon.

Age 33 : 2001 On returning from a snowboarding trip to Mammoth he made 1st ascent of Rewind, Font 7b, at Thrusscross a long standing problem. In March he represented the BMC on an exchange meet to China. Spent two weeks teaching, training and climbing in new areas with Steve Mclure, Lindsay Griffin and Nick Williams. At present he his working on a new route in the North West of Scotland.
June Made 1st ascent of Great Escape on Arran.

Age 33 : 2002 Spent January in Joshua Tree doing Highball problems such as So High, Planet X, White Rasterferian and working on a project in Wonderland of Rocks. Made 4th ascent of Jerry moffats Inertia Reel Traverse V12 font 8a+ and an ascent of Ben Moons Mushin V10.

If you would like to arrange for John to give a talk contact Heason Events

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