| Address |
Matlock,
Derbyshire |
| Telephone |
|
| Email |
JPearson85@aol.com
|
| Date
of Birth |
|
| Occupation |
Student
/ Sales assistant at ‘Outside’ Hathersage |
| Time
Invested |
3
yrs |
| Long
Term Goals |
To
climb full-time |
| |
To
concentrate all my energies into improvement and development. |
| |
Establish
new routes of a higher grade, E11-E12 |
| Short
Term Goals |
Consolidate
the E8/9 grade. |
| |
Climb
E10 |
| |
Climb
more very technical but safer routes |
| |
Start
pushing harder on-sights |
| Acheivements
So Far: |
|
| March
2003 |
Who
Needs Ready Brek E4 7a, 4th ascent |
| |
Kaluza
Klein E7 6c |
| Some
time between |
Benign
Lives E7 6c |
| |
Out
Of My Tree Fr8a |
| |
Pump
Up The Power Fr8a+ |
| September
2003 |
Windows
Of Perception E6 7a |
| |
My
Halo E7 6b |
| |
NEW
ROUTE Cool Tool E6 6b |
| |
Painted
Rumour E6 6a, Flash on friends gear |
| |
The
Knock E5 6a, OS |
| October
2003 |
Life
Assurance E6 6b, Flash |
| |
The
Snivelling Shit E5 6a, OS |
| |
Fell
off the top of OS attempt on Psycho-Path E6 6b/E7 6c |
| November
2003 |
Finally
sent The Zone E9 6c (prob E8 6c), after 6ish days and one jump/fall
from the crux on day four |
| December
2003 |
Smoked Salmon E8 7b, took one and a bit days, broke pebble off on
lead |
| |
Flight
of Ideas E7 7a, took about ½ an hour. Very easy for grade |
| |
Knocking
on Heavens Door E10 6c (prob E9 but as bold and hard as E9 can get),
I sure was. Quite simply the most scared I have ever been. Low down
Black Diamond “Pecker” (v.poor) for “head”
gear. Had a wobbler on last move!!! No more bold stuff for a while |
| |
NEW ROUTE at black rocks. Dyno Might E7 6b. 1st dyno protected by
poor B.D micro stopper 1, 2nd dyno protected by friends in flared
break |
| January
2004 |
NEW
ROUTE at Burbage North. Destructive Tendencies XS 6c (E7 7a). The
arête left of Amazon crack. Climb Amazon crack for a few meters
and then head up the arête. It is technical climbing with a
very dynamic slap to an okish crimp and a few more scary moves to
the top breaks. The crux is holding the crimp and stopping the barn
door. The next few moves are easier (6a/b) but are quite tenuous on
gritty smears in an ever more serious position. I placed cams in Amazon
crack at the base if the arête but there is nothing to stop
people climbing the crack to the top, placing gear and then down-climbing
to the base of the arête and effectively top roping it. This
is one of the reasons I gave it XS. Other people think E7. On reflection,
the crux may be easy 7a, but maybe not, what do I know? |
| February
2004 |
Injured
my finger in wales. Stoped climbing for a while to let it recover |
| March
2004 |
Did
Bohemian Grove V13/Font 8b. Took 51min and 32 seconds (cheers Dave
J). Just happened to walk by it and decided to have a go. Prob V11ish |
| April
2004 |
NEW
ROUTE on Binian North Tor. EaZy Now E6 6c. Climb well-protected flake
until it runs out then do a hard and weird rock-over/mantle to slopey
top. Surprisingly pumpy to place the gear. There are lots and lots
of hard projects on the tors, will go back in the summer when weather
is a bit better |
| |
Only
Fools And Horses E5 6b, OS. This is Simon’s pride and joy on
Hen Mountain. 3rd ascent? |
| |
NEW
ROUTE on Hen Mountain. Mike Ropeyness E4 6a, OS. Slab between the
E2 cracks and the E1 slab, head for the big side-pull/flake at the
top |
| |
Wall
Of Prey E5 6a, OS. Amazing |
| |
Ontos
E3 6b, OS |
| |
Sterling
Moss E4 6b, OS. Felt like E5 but it was dirty |
| |
NEW
ROUTE Purgamentum E4 6b, OS. Again felt like E5 but was dirty. A very
scary but easy top-out |
| |
Down
to Earth E4 6a, OS solo |
| |
Tried
Elder Statesman. Can do crux 95% of the time but find getting out
to arête nails. Need to be flexible. Midgie hell is fast aproaching |
| May
2004 |
Bat
out of Hell, Higgar tor, E5 6b, OS. Tried it not warmed up and got
the worst flash pump ever |
| |
Rowly Birkin QC, Higgar tor, E6 6c, OS. Amazing. 3*** classic |
| |
Freed
Them at yarncliff, Mo gave it V10/11 with the bolt, probably V9. An
awesome and scary V10 if done free |
