Born: 30th December 1968 in the bavarian Trostberg as second of three children.

Whilst still in their early childhood their parents introduced Alex and his brother Thomas into the world of mountaineering. Their father Thomas, himself known for early and fast ascents (e.g. the North face of Droites in the 60s), encouraged them into extreme alpinism. Since 1983 the brothers have formed a formidable team.

In 1992 Alex established himself as one of the world's leading sport climbers, with the first ascent of his route Om (F9a) and another 4 routes graded F8c+ and F9a over the following years. Above all however, Alex is an all-rounder. The first redpoint ascent of the mega classic Salathé (5.13b) on the mythic El Capitan shows the variety of his climbing skills. With another five new redpoint ascents on El Cap – which includes El Nino (5.13b), El Corazon (5.13b) and the famous Zodiac (5.13d) – Alex is one of the foremost protagonists of free climbing on big walls.

In 1997 he lead an expedition into the Karakoram which climbed the 2000 meter east face of the 7108m high Latok II and, for the first time, big-wall-climbing was transferred to the 7000 meter peaks of the Himalaya.

Another remarkable ascent is the first ascent of Bellavista (F7a+/A4) at the Cima Ovest in winter 2000. He solo-climbed this route with its giant roof, which involved hard free and aid climbing. It’s one of the hardest routes in the Dolomites today. One year later he redpointed the whole route in a day and transformed Bellavista (F8c) into one of the most challenging alpine rock climbs in the world.

In 2002 he climbed another route on Tre Cime. This time he free soloed the Direttissima (7a+) of Cima Grande. Less high, but more difficult, he also free soloed several hard sport climbs which includes the 22 meters high Kommunist (F8b+), the first free solo ascent of a route of this grade.

• 1989-1990 civil service as first-aid attendant of the International Red Cross
• since 1992 mountain guide of the international association UIAGM
• since 1997 graduated master of physics
• since 1998 mountaineering as profession

• 1992 TRIANGEL OM 9a 1st ascent sport climbing
• 1994 SIURANA LA RAMBLA 8c+ 1st ascent sport climbing
  SCHLEIER WEISSE ROSE 9a 1st ascent sport climbing
  SCHLEIER BLACK POWER 8c+ 1st ascent sport climbing
• 1995 EL CAPITAN SALATHE 5.13b 1st redpoint ascent big wall
  SPALDANG, 5590m EAST BUTTRESS 5.12a 1st ascent & onsight expedition
• 1996 SCHLEIER OPEN AIR 9a 1st ascent sport climbing
• 1997 LATOK II, 7108m WESTFACE 6c/A3+ 1st ascent expedition
• 1998 CHO OYU, 8201m DIR. NW-ROUTE up to 55° regular ascent expedition
  EL CAPITAN EL NINO 5.13b 1st ascent big wall EL CAPITAN FREE RIDER 5.12d 1st redpoint ascent big wall in 15h25min
• 2000 CIMA OVEST BELLAVISTA 7a+/A4 1st ascent, solo & alpine rock climb in wintertime
  EL CAPITAN GOLDEN GATE 5.13b 1st ascent big wall
• 2001 CIMA OVEST BELLAVISTA 8c 1st redpoint ascent alpine rock climb .
  EL CAPITAN EL CORAZON 5.13b 1st ascent big wall
• 2002 SCHLEIER COOL YOUR FOOT MAN 8a+ free solo sport climbing
  CIMA GRANDE DIRETTISSIMA 7a+ free solo alpine rock climb
• 2003 SCHLEIER OPPORTUNIST 8b free solo sport climbing
  KARLSTEIN MESCALITO 8a free solo sport climbing
  FEUERHORN FIREWALL 8b 1st redpoint ascent alpine rock climb
  EL CAPITAN ZODIAC 5.13d 1st redpoint ascent big wall
• 2004 SCHLEIER KOMMUNIST 8b+ free solo sport climbing
  EL CAPITAN ZODIAC A2+/5.8 speed record in 1:51,34 big wall
  ARWA SPIRE, 6193m CAPSICO A3/5.8/70° 2nd ascent expedition
  

To arrange for Alex to give a lecture Contact Heason Events